When purchasing a bespoke suit, besides the jacket cuffs, there are many discussions to be had. My personal method tends to work in the following order:
- Discuss the needs of the client
- Discuss the desired style
- Start from the collar, finish at the ankles.
- Take measurements
- Assess the unique body pattern
The Jacket Cuffs
A bespoke suit should have 2 main characteristics. Number one, your cuff buttons should be functional. It’s one of the tell-tale signs of a bespoke suit. Although less used today than their origins intended, it’s still a dead giveaway. Many tailors, Roseberry Tailoring included, will decline you the option of a functioning cuff on your very first order. The reason for this is that, should the sleeve length need altered, it’s almost impossible to do this without making new sleeves.
The second characteristic is that the sleeve length should be half an inch shorter than your shirt sleeve (which will, of course, be purchased at the same time as your new suit). For those who like to wear a nice watch (like a Rolex, Panerai or Patek Phillipe), one cuff (usually the left) should be cut up to a half inch wider in diameter to allow the sleeve to fall over the watch with ease.
Number of buttons
In reality, you can have as many buttons on your cuff as you like. I like to encourage either 3, 4 or 5 buttons depending on the length of your arm in relation to the jacket, but I’ve dealt with Mods in the past who have requested 8 buttons “kissing” (kissing means that the buttons slightly overlap each other and perhaps take up the same space as less buttons). Most business suits will have 3 or 4 buttons, some casual options will have one or two.
Less popular, but still available are Gauntlet cuffs, where a separate piece of material is placed over the cuff of the jacket for style. This is a military derivative, but can still be found on highlandwear, gentry wear, toastmasters and official military wear.
Roseberry Tailoring are happy to discuss such details with you before you purchase your bespoke garments. We’re delighted to take the time to ensure that the choices you make are the right ones for you, your personality and your occasion. Book an appointment today for the best style advice.