Roseberry Tailoring are delighted to announce our partnership with Scottish Rugby as their “Official Formal Wear Supplier”. 

 

The Scotland rugby team will be dressed for success for at least the next two seasons after it was confirmed that Roseberry Tailoring has become the national team’s Official Formalwear partner.

The squad were measured from top to toe at the recent August camp, allowing for bespoke suits to be created for the range of shapes and sizes within the group, from short-and-square props and high-and-mighty locks, to diminutive scrum-halves and athletic wingers.

Chris McGowan, Head Of Tailoring at Roseberry Tailoring, said: “Everyone at Roseberry Tailoring is delighted to be working with Scottish Rugby.

“The team’s performance over recent years deserves a look befitting of their standing in world rugby.

“Here at Roseberry Tailoring, we look forward to creating amazing formalwear to help the team look good and feel good.”

Roseberry are one of Scotland’s newest bespoke tailors, established in 2015, however their heritage spans over four generations of tailors to the early 1930s.

A great deal of time and effort goes into ensuring that Roseberry Tailoring source only the best cloth from the finest mills in the UK and Italy, ensuring each garment passes a rigorous, seven-point check before its first fitting.

Scottish Rugby Chief Operating Officer, Dominic McKay, said: “We’re pleased to welcome Roseberry Tailoring as our Official Formalwear Partner for the next two years.

“Roseberry is a tailoring brand known for maintaining the highest standards, with many parallels to be drawn between their commitment, preparation and quality of delivery to the national team itself.”

Follow our journey with Scottish Rugby on Facebook, Instagram and Twitter, where you will also see some amazing images of our work. To book your appointment with Roseberry Tailoring, click here, or call 03300228007. Home and office visits available.

5 common mistakes when wearing a new suit.

As an ex-retailer, I’m only too aware of these most common mistakes that people make when wearing a brand new suit. Thankfully, as a bespoke tailor, I’m now able to spend a great deal of time with my clients and I can help and educate on various sartorial matters. Everyone loves wearing a brand new suit, especially if it has been lovingly handmade just for you as you’ll look and feel great in what you’re wearing, with added confidence and a spring in your step. Let’s have a look at the most common mistakes here.

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Pockets:

When you take your brand new suits home, you’ll soon realise that the pocket bags on the jacket are stitched closed. This is a very deliberate action by the suit maker, whether retail, made-to-measure or bespoke. For the retailer (or tailor), it helps the cloth on the jacket sit flat when hung, waiting for a buyer. Personally, I would advise that you leave your pocket bags stitched closed as the temptation to use the pocket for car keys, wallets and various other heavy items can be greater – resulting in stretching of the cloth (or sagging).

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Vent and Shoulder Threads:

Now this one really gets on my nerves. There’s a massive difference between Swelled Edge, Hand-stitched or AMF (American Machine and Foundry Pick Stitching) on a suit jacket – a very deliberate style option, and those little bits of thread that are in place to hold your vents down (tack or baste stitching). Tack and Baste Stitching is to be removed before wearing. Their sole purpose is to hold the back panel of the jacket flat in order that it doesn’t ride up or crease when on the hanger/in transit. If I see you in the street with tack or baste stitching still on your suit, I’m likely to let you know that it should be removed. I’ll most likely also have the appropriate tool on my person to do the job. Please don’t take offence as I’m trying to spare your blushes when you walk into that job interview or big meeting.

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Branding labels:

Usually found on the right hand sleeve of a branded suit. These aren’t something I encounter currently as I don’t put them onto my bespoke suits, but please take it from me – it’s not supposed to stay on when wearing. When you purchase your suit, here’s a handy tip. Ask the retailer to remove it for you. Sometimes, these can be stitched in place too tightly requiring quite a precise “stitch-unpicking tool” to remove it without damaging the cloth on the sleeve. If you try to remove this at home and don’t do a great job, you’ll have a hole in your sleeve and the retailer won’t take it back. This can mean an expensive repair which on a retail suit can often be more expensive than the suit itself.

 

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Hangers:

Hangers are vitally important to the longevity of your suit. The wrong shape hanger can destroy your internal construction, causing your shoulder pad to misshape and causing cloth to stretch. Please use a thick wooden or plastic hanger with a substantial shoulder end. This will support your shoulder when hanging in the wardrobe and will also allow the rest of the jacket to hang freely with the front and back panels separated adequately. You’ll find that this allows creases to remove themselves more efficiently, giving your suit a fresher look

Another piece of advice I regularly pass out is to use a clip hanger for your trousers on the day or two immediately after wearing your suit. Hang the trousers from the ankle. The waistband will provide enough weight to help any creases resolve themselves. It’ll also allow your pressed crease at the front and back of the trouser to last longer, requiring less professional care in the long run. Once you’re happy that the trousers have recovered suitably, place them back onto the suit hanger with the jacket.

 

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Ironing:

Don’t. Just don’t do it.

The temptation is there to iron your trousers after a hard day’s wear, but it’s most likely to cause damage to the cloth. The heat will stress the fibres causing them to snap and shine, and nobody wants to have shiny trousers. I always recommend Steam when caring for your garments. Whether professionally done, or at home, invest in a good steam cleaner. You’ll also fine a multitude of other household uses for one of these devices, but when it comes to your suit, steam is your best friend. This helps open up the fibres of the suit as you’re going along, which helps remove odour. You’ll also notice that the lifespan of your suits should be much longer.

 

For more information on mistakes men make with a new suit or to discuss our other bespoke suits, jackets and shirts, why not book an appointment at your home or office, Glasgow City Centre, Edinburgh City Centre or at our Roseberry Tailoring HQ. Simply click here to go straight to the booking page.

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Is Purchasing Bespoke Tailoring Expensive?

Let’s look at this myth in more detail.

There are many misconceptions around bespoke tailoring, and I don’t think that many people in the industry do much to help the case. Some tailors simply have a “From” pricing system, where they’ll try their best to help you by saying “Well, we start FROM £X, but it can be as much as £2000 to £3000 depending on the options you choose”. Sure, it’s a meticulous process and us tailors need to know what work is involved in order to quote accurately, but then there are the ones who like to throw out a figure and see if it sticks. One in particular plumps for the start-low-and-charge-for-all-details pricing strategy, which means that on first look, it’s a fantastic deal, but by the end of the process, you’ve spent an additional couple of hundred pounds on surcharges and small details like buttonhole stitching, vents, lapels or even on the cloth itself. Having worked in this business for 15 years, I’ve seen many pricing structures and strategies, and I’ve looked at them from many perspectives in order to find out just how Roseberry Tailoring can strike the right chord with our pricing structure. With that being the case, we decided upon the fixed price model, where, no matter the difference in cloth price within each range, there’s a blanket price for the category. We carry 3 ranges at present, and within each range, we have plenty of cloth options to choose from. Some of them cost us more than others, but on the whole, we’ve grouped them together as best we can. There are only a few circumstances where we would be unable to avoid a surcharge, one of those being our range of premium linings, which incur a surcharge. As does express delivery, and some truly unique pattern work, but we do discuss all of this in advance of commencing an order.

Purple Label BespokePurple Label

Our Purple Label suits start at just £850 for a bespoke 2 piece suit. That’s incredible value at just £2.32 per day (over the course of a year). Less than your morning coffee on the way to work. To upgrade to a 3 piece, or add spare trousers, the difference would only be 82 pence more. Our Purple label was named after we took delivery of our striking cloth books. Originally, this was to be our Red Label, paying homage to the great red giant of Queensferry – The Forth Rail Bridge. Our cloth books arrived covered in a gorgeous Purple that we simply couldn’t ignore. Over 500 cloth options are available in this category, all of which are composed of natural fibres.

Gold Label BespokeGold Label

Roseberry Tailoring was in the process of being established just as the new Queensferry Crossing was being built. We took our “Gold Label” from the colour of the towers which form the main structure of the bridge. Our Gold Label suits begin at £1200, which is equivalent to just £3.28 per day. One cup of coffee less and you could be enjoying the luxury look and feel of a 100% lambswool suit from W.Bill 1663, or the beautiful fine threads of Vitale Barberis Canonico. Holland & Sherry also feature in this label and the range of material here is vast. We have over 1000 cloth options available in this range with other brands such as Bateman Ogden, Huddersfield and Porter & Harding included. If you were to upgrade your outfit to a 3 piece, or add spare trousers, you’d be in for a difference of just £1.15.

Platinum Label BespokePlatinum Label

As mentioned above, we draw our inspiration from our local surroundings. The cables which complete the structure of the new Queensferry Crossing have a lovely platinum hue as they blend in with the skyline in the distance. Just looking at them was very thought provoking. Those cables remind me very much of the fibres that make up your suit cloth. For a construction such as the new bridge, only the strongest will do the job and flaws can’t be accepted. This is the same principle as our Platinum Label, where you’ll find only the best cloth mills such as Dormeuil, Holland & Sherry, Loro Piana and Fox Flannels. Just £4.10 per day will ensure you are wearing the best bespoke tailoring that money can buy and we might even save you a few pounds as you ditch the junk food in order to keep in shape. After all, you dare not grow out of your fine bespoke Italian cloth hand tailored suit. You can enjoy a bespoke 3 piece, or spare pair of trousers in this range for just £1.43 more.

Let me also tell you that, when you buy from an “off the peg” retailer, you’re not buying something that fits to you. You’re buying something that YOU have to fit INTO. There are pressure points at the armholes, crotch and thighs and sometimes the shoulders. It can cause a multitude of issues with the longevity of your garments if they’re not fitted correctly. This can cause misshaping of the cloth, distortion of the hang and, in general, will cause your suit to wear through quicker. In turn, this will mean that you need to replace it quicker too. Bespoke is actually excellent value for money when you consider that your suits will, on average, last longer than anything bought “off the peg. It’s also something that you have an amazing level of input into. Something you can design for yourself and something that will fit you, and only you. Wouldn’t it be a shame to hold one of the many misconceptions about bespoke tailoring? Isn’t it time you thought about talking to your tailor?

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This month at Roseberry Tailoring, take your pick from the offers below ahead of the festive season. Now’s the time to place coat orders as they’ll be here in time for the cold snap in January and February. There’s still time to purchase a voucher for Christmas gifts, and for orders placed this week, we can still have your items ready in time for New Year. This is your last call for a New Year Tuxedo or Kilt Jacket.

 

Our offers this month will add value to our already incredible ranges. Read below to find out more.

November TrousersOffer 1:

Free spare pair of trousers with any suit purchase. Very popular with the business orders, this will prolong the life of your favourite bespoke suits by ensuring that you always have a spare pair of trousers to give the first pair a rest. Save at least £350. Quote NOVEMBER TROUSERS when booking your appointment.

 

 

 

November ShirtsOffer 2:

Choose 2 bespoke shirts from our range to compliment your new bespoke suit. With over 200 cloth options to choose from, you can design something amazing using our fantastic range of style options. This offer will save you an amazing £300. Quote NOVEMBER SHIRTS when booking your appointment.

 

 

 

November CoatsOffer 3:

Half Price Overcoat with any suit order. Our overcoats begin at £800, and can cost up to £2500. I’m opening the whole range to a 50% discount when you purchase any bespoke suit from our ranges. That’s a saving of at least £400, and potentially up to £1250. Quote NOVEMBER OVERCOAT when booking your appointment.

 

These offers can be redeemed at any of our locations, but cannot be used in conjunction with one another. We will be in Glasgow every Tuesday, Edinburgh every Thursday, and we’ll be available for home and office visits on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays. For weekends, please call 03300228007, we’re often exhibiting at various trade shows or wedding shows, but we’re still open nonetheless.

With the autumn/winter season now in full flow, Roseberry Tailoring made the trip to London last week to engage in a workshop with one of our cloth suppliers, Loro Piana. As part of the workshop, we were introduced to some of the fantastic new cloth options that Loro Piana have brought to market, just in time for the wind and rain and our October offer.

First, let me introduce to you our new Loro Piana Storm System cloth range. This cloth is made of 2 layers. One being a fine wool, with the backing made from hydrophobic membranes that are breathable, windproof and water resistant. This is the first time I’ve been confident using the term “Raincoat” as opposed to “Overcoat”. With this in mind, let me introduce our first offer.

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Bespoke Raincoat – £999 (Usually £1400).

From our range of Loro Piana Storm System cloth, create your raincoat to protect you from the Scottish wind and rain this autumn. Experience Loro Piana at it’s technological best with this exclusive range, and don’t worry about being caught in the rain without your trusty brolly.

Tuxedo Offer

As we approach the winter “party season”, we’ll no doubt be invited to plenty of events, dinners and ceremonies. Many events at this time of year will require Black Tie. Don’t be caught out. Place your order today for a brand new Tuxedo (starting from £850).

Offer 2October Offer

For our second October Offer, Roseberry Tailoring will offer you a discount on the ranges as follows. The best saving can be found on our Platinum range, which includes our Loro Piana cloth options. This is your one chance to own a luxurious Loro Piana suit at a fantastic price.

Purple Label – £850 – NOW £750 (Saving £100)

Gold Label – £1050 – NOW £850 (Saving £200)

Platinum Label – £1500 – NOW £1200. (Saving £300)

As a further present, we’ll also allow you the choice of absolutely any lining from our whole range, free of charge. This is a further saving of £99 on a 2 piece suit.

Finish off your Tuxedo outfit with a classy bespoke dress shirt, with a choice of full collar or wing collar, single or double cuff, plain front, covered buttons, pleated front or Marcella finish for only £149 (usually £199 – Saving £50).

Each month, Roseberry Tailoring piece together a package deal for those of you who might want to take advantage. Our August Offer focuses on ensuring that you’re all ready to get back to business after the summer holidays.

TaitAugust Offer

When you make any purchase this month from our Gold label or Platinum label, we’ll upgrade your purchase to a 3 piece suit. If that’s not your cup of tea, we’ll throw in a free spare pair of trousers instead. Whichever SUITS you better (pardon the pun).

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Purple Label

Purchase from the Purple label this month can upgrade to either a 3 piece, or add a spare pair of trousers for just £150 more. That’s a saving of up to £200 on the individual item.

It’s fair to mention here that, with Roseberry Tailoring, it’s not just a suit you’re buying. You’re buying into a service, an experience. We’ll guide you expertly through the process from start to finish, ensuring that you understand the process, the product and the relationship with your tailor. Book your appointment today to take advantage of this month’s offer.

When purchasing a bespoke suit, besides the jacket pockets, there are many discussions to be had. My personal method tends to work in the following order:

  1. Discuss the needs of the client
  2. Discuss the desired style
  3. Start from the collar, finish at the ankles.
  4. Take measurements
  5. Assess the unique body pattern

Jacket Pockets

Often, the jacket pockets are chosen on the proviso that the suit is intended for either formal, business or casual wear, however, times are changing and people choose for fashion reasons, other than what is right for them. I like to choose according to body shape, and my recommendations are always geared towards the option that will make you look your best.

Pockets

Slant PocketSlant pockets

Slant pockets are a fantastic option for enhancing your silhouette. Although less formal in nature, they can provide a more robust body shape with an element of “cut” in the jacket. Purely illusionary as no measurements is taken smaller to help, the slant pocket simply provides the wearer with a more svelte look. Historically, they were intended for use on horseback, allowing the wearer easier access to the pockets whilst riding (and to stop items from falling out on a straight cut pocket)

Straight PocketStraight pockets

Seen as the most common pocket cut, it’s often linked more to business suits, tuxedos and formal wear. More classic in style, its the go-to for those less certain about trying bespoke suits for the first time. It allows timeless elegance and is never a regrettable choice. The idea here is that a straight pocket adds more girth to the wearer, desirable in the early years to emphasise the stature of the gent wearing the garments.

Ticket PocketTicket pockets

Now, I love a ticket pocket. It’s not everyone’s cup of tea, but I think they really add to the look af a jacket. I also prefer, nay, insist that taller wearers opt for a ticket pocket as it helps to break up the body of the jacket, thus helping the wearer to appear less tall. I also prefer to see it in a slant. From a historical standpoint, the ticket pocket isn’t a ticket pocket. They’ve been around since long before the days of railroad or public travel. In fact, the primary use for a ticket pocket was to hold coins for those riding on horseback. It allowed the wearer to keep the jacket fastened when the need arose for coins to be presented for whatever reason. The ticket pocket evolved to hold tickets, and nowadays is rarely used.

Jetts or Flaps?

Etiquette tells us that a jacket pocket flap is to be tucked in upon entering an indoor area. This creates a jetted pocket. Style has evolved over time to provide designers with etiquette rules for different types of suiting. For example, it’s rare that you’ll find a tuxedo (an indoor intended evening garment) with a flapped pocket. They’re usually always jetted. Business suits, on the other hand are usually flapped as business people were always perceived to be travelling to attend business and so had flapped pockets, which they should tuck in when indoors.Jetted Pocket

These days, I’d advise a flapped pocket. As mentioned above, if you want to achieve the jetted look, you simply tuck in your pocket flaps.

There really are so many different options to chose from on pocket styles. Again, I like to use the pockets to help enhance the body shape of the client in the room. I’ll advise accordingly, however, I’d never claim to be the type who would twist your arm up your back. If the client wants different from my advice, then the client is correct. We can always try to persuade the client to try out our suggestions on subsequent orders.

Book your appointment today.

When purchasing a bespoke suit, besides the jacket lapels, there are many discussions to be had. My personal method tends to work in the following order:

  1. Discuss the needs of the client
  2. Discuss the desired style
  3. Start from the collar, finish at the ankles.
  4. Take measurements
  5. Assess the unique body pattern

The Jacket Lapels

We could probably break this up into 3 or 4 blogs explaining in really hard detail what each lapel type is intended for, but it’s just probably best to say that I take an “each to their own” approach to this topic, however, I will provide the correct advice in the face to face meetings.4583.WB130

There are 3 main lapel styles. Notched, peaked and shawl. Variations on each type are available and widths can be discussed, but it’s fair to say that these are going to have a massive effect on the outcome of your creations. Some things simply go hand in hand, for example, most double breasted jackets will have a peaked lapel, most tuxedos will have a shawl collar, and most business suits will sport a notch. This is by no means the be-all-and-end-all of lapel advice, but it is inmportant to remember the historical origins of each type of lapel and why they still impact on todays society.

Peak Lapel

UntitledOriginating in the 16th century, the peak lapel was found mostly on double breast style garments. Deriving from Military outfits, where the collar was stood on end in colder climates to cover the wearers neck, it became a very stylish addition to a single breasted jacket in the 1920’s and 30’s. Still a very popular option on a tuxedo to this day, it’s associated more closely with formal wear and can be found on many a wedding suit.

Notch Lapel

Details 4By far the most common lapel type available. A suit to suit the majority of occasions. Notched lapels are a classic addition to any wardrobe and is mostly found on single breasted jackets. My tip here is that if you only own one suit in your life, make it a notched lapel of standard width. You cannot go wrong. My preference is 3″, but depending on your proportions, that may be different for you. Modern trends lie towards a slim cut, notch lapel.

Shawl collar

Now I’ve seen this done in many terrible ways, but it’s the favourite for a tuxedo. I’d always recommend that it be worn with a bow tie, as I feel that it completes the look, but again “each to their own”. Here’s a nice example modelled by Ryan Gosling.

GoslingPopular in the gentleman’s clubs and smoking clubs in the past, this style is a little more debonair than the others and alludes to more of a sophisticated character. Think James Bond, dinner parties, evening wear et all…

In Summary

I’ll want to know what your intended use of the suit is. Once I know that, we can discuss your options properly, but in the modern day, we’re seeing more and more people trying a shawl lapel on a cloth less suited to it, just to be different and just for style. It’s important to know that, once your garment is cut, the lapel is one of the items that cannot be changed through adjustments. If you don’t like what you’ve chosen, it could end up costing you a new jacket to replace.

Why not book an appointment today to discuss creating your own bespoke garments. Each conversation leads to completely different creations.

 

When purchasing a bespoke suit, besides the jacket front, there are many discussions to be had. My personal method tends to work in the following order:

  1. Discuss the needs of the client
  2. Discuss the desired style
  3. Start from the collar, finish at the ankles.
  4. Take measurements
  5. Assess the unique body pattern

The Jacket Front

In all seriousness here, I could probably write blog content about each and every possible jacket front individually, but we’ll keep it sweet here. There are many options to choose from here. Ultimately, what you choose here will define the overall look of the whole suit. Whether single breasted, double breasted, Nehru/mandarin etc, there are a multitude of ways to style your suit depending on the jacket front.

3 piece suit

By far the most popular option of the modern day is the single breasted 2 button jacket. Elegant in design and allowing a tailored waist (or corset – which the gents don’t like to hear), it’s also perfect for those with developed chest figurations, narrow waists, or even chaps who have a waist measurement similar to the chest measurement. It allows a fine silhouette and can be worn both for business and casual events.

Other options available in single breasted are:

  • Single button fastening
  • 3 button fastening (See image below for etiquette).
  • 4 button fastening (high lapel)
  • 5 button fastening (for longcoats with high lapel)

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Double Breasted

I’m a huge fan of DB jackets. I love the classic styling involved. All the little “hand-in-hand” details that go along with it, such as the peaked lapel, the straight cut pocket and the side or closed vent. Of course, over the years, I’ve created numerous twists and variations upon the style. My absolute favourite style is the 6 button, 2 fastening front. Again, this allows for the shoulders and chest to be emphasised as the waist is nipped in at the top fastening button.

2014-summer-men-suits-double-breasted-Men-s-Clothing-Causal-Blazers-terno-masculino-Suits-For-Men

Other options available in double breasted are:

  • 2 button, 1 fastening
  • 4 button, 2 fastening
  • 6 button, 3 fastening
  • 8 buttons, 3 fastening
  • 8 buttons, 4 fastening

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Nehru

Originating from the Indian Sherwani, and named after the former Indian Prime Minister, Jawaharlal Nehru (who reigned in 1947), the Nehru style jacket is famed for it’s mandarin style collar. Buttoning all the way up to the collar, with no lapel, the Nehru enjoyed it’s finest period in the late 1960’s and early 1970’s. Adopted by the Mod movement as one of their favoured styles and worn by celebrities of the day, such as The Beatles and The Monkees. Also, since then, many a Bond Villain has met his demise whilst wearing the Nehru.

Tie&PockSqJuly Offer

Ladies and gentlemen, July is upon us and I just can’t tell you how excited I am about this months offer. We do try our best to make sure that you’re all receiving great service and fantastic garments, as well as access to amazing shoes, ties pocket squares and belts. This month, we’re going all out to make sure that you all receive our best offer yet!

 

 

 

So, it’s July. It’s Wedding season. It’s the start of the summer holidays and we’re all gearing up for a long hot summer. That’s why Roseberry Tailoring will be giving you the chance to own one of our amazing suits for just £500.AAEAAQAAAAAAAAj3AAAAJGExMGM3ZDllLTIxZTAtNGJhOC1iMzg0LWZiODM2YjQyYTk5NQ

How does it work?

Simple. When you purchase any suit from our Gold Label or Platinum Label, you can have a second suit from the Purple Label for just £500. With our huge selection of cloth, there’s everything from plains to pinheads, checks to stripes and birdeyes to dogtooths. Black, navy, grey, blue, burgundy, purple, brown, white, whatever, you name it, we’ve got it.

 

Book your appointment today. Remember, you can visit us at The Crowne Plaza Hotel, Royal Terrace, Edinburgh or The Piersland House Hotel in Troon. Alternatively, you can book a home or office visit. Whichever is more convenient for you.

Book now, using our code: julyoffer

Don’t miss out, you won’t be disappointed.

 

 

 

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