When purchasing a bespoke suit, besides the jacket pockets, there are many discussions to be had. My personal method tends to work in the following order:
- Discuss the needs of the client
- Discuss the desired style
- Start from the collar, finish at the ankles.
- Take measurements
- Assess the unique body pattern
Often, the jacket pockets are chosen on the proviso that the suit is intended for either formal, business or casual wear, however, times are changing and people choose for fashion reasons, other than what is right for them. I like to choose according to body shape, and my recommendations are always geared towards the option that will make you look your best.
Slant pockets are a fantastic option for enhancing your silhouette. Although less formal in nature, they can provide a more robust body shape with an element of “cut” in the jacket. Purely illusionary as no measurements is taken smaller to help, the slant pocket simply provides the wearer with a more svelte look. Historically, they were intended for use on horseback, allowing the wearer easier access to the pockets whilst riding (and to stop items from falling out on a straight cut pocket)
Seen as the most common pocket cut, it’s often linked more to business suits, tuxedos and formal wear. More classic in style, its the go-to for those less certain about trying bespoke suits for the first time. It allows timeless elegance and is never a regrettable choice. The idea here is that a straight pocket adds more girth to the wearer, desirable in the early years to emphasise the stature of the gent wearing the garments.
Now, I love a ticket pocket. It’s not everyone’s cup of tea, but I think they really add to the look af a jacket. I also prefer, nay, insist that taller wearers opt for a ticket pocket as it helps to break up the body of the jacket, thus helping the wearer to appear less tall. I also prefer to see it in a slant. From a historical standpoint, the ticket pocket isn’t a ticket pocket. They’ve been around since long before the days of railroad or public travel. In fact, the primary use for a ticket pocket was to hold coins for those riding on horseback. It allowed the wearer to keep the jacket fastened when the need arose for coins to be presented for whatever reason. The ticket pocket evolved to hold tickets, and nowadays is rarely used.
Jetts or Flaps?
Etiquette tells us that a jacket pocket flap is to be tucked in upon entering an indoor area. This creates a jetted pocket. Style has evolved over time to provide designers with etiquette rules for different types of suiting. For example, it’s rare that you’ll find a tuxedo (an indoor intended evening garment) with a flapped pocket. They’re usually always jetted. Business suits, on the other hand are usually flapped as business people were always perceived to be travelling to attend business and so had flapped pockets, which they should tuck in when indoors.
These days, I’d advise a flapped pocket. As mentioned above, if you want to achieve the jetted look, you simply tuck in your pocket flaps.
There really are so many different options to chose from on pocket styles. Again, I like to use the pockets to help enhance the body shape of the client in the room. I’ll advise accordingly, however, I’d never claim to be the type who would twist your arm up your back. If the client wants different from my advice, then the client is correct. We can always try to persuade the client to try out our suggestions on subsequent orders.