When purchasing a bespoke suit, besides the jacket front, there are many discussions to be had. My personal method tends to work in the following order:
- Discuss the needs of the client
- Discuss the desired style
- Start from the collar, finish at the ankles.
- Take measurements
- Assess the unique body pattern
The Jacket Front
In all seriousness here, I could probably write blog content about each and every possible jacket front individually, but we’ll keep it sweet here. There are many options to choose from here. Ultimately, what you choose here will define the overall look of the whole suit. Whether single breasted, double breasted, Nehru/mandarin etc, there are a multitude of ways to style your suit depending on the jacket front.
By far the most popular option of the modern day is the single breasted 2 button jacket. Elegant in design and allowing a tailored waist (or corset – which the gents don’t like to hear), it’s also perfect for those with developed chest figurations, narrow waists, or even chaps who have a waist measurement similar to the chest measurement. It allows a fine silhouette and can be worn both for business and casual events.
Other options available in single breasted are:
- Single button fastening
- 3 button fastening (See image below for etiquette).
- 4 button fastening (high lapel)
- 5 button fastening (for longcoats with high lapel)
I’m a huge fan of DB jackets. I love the classic styling involved. All the little “hand-in-hand” details that go along with it, such as the peaked lapel, the straight cut pocket and the side or closed vent. Of course, over the years, I’ve created numerous twists and variations upon the style. My absolute favourite style is the 6 button, 2 fastening front. Again, this allows for the shoulders and chest to be emphasised as the waist is nipped in at the top fastening button.
Other options available in double breasted are:
- 2 button, 1 fastening
- 4 button, 2 fastening
- 6 button, 3 fastening
- 8 buttons, 3 fastening
- 8 buttons, 4 fastening
Originating from the Indian Sherwani, and named after the former Indian Prime Minister, Jawaharlal Nehru (who reigned in 1947), the Nehru style jacket is famed for it’s mandarin style collar. Buttoning all the way up to the collar, with no lapel, the Nehru enjoyed it’s finest period in the late 1960’s and early 1970’s. Adopted by the Mod movement as one of their favoured styles and worn by celebrities of the day, such as The Beatles and The Monkees. Also, since then, many a Bond Villain has met his demise whilst wearing the Nehru.