I wanted a statement tuxedo to wear to a wedding at the end of last month as I’m always expected to step out to these occasions in style. Being a tailor, I sometimes spend a lot of time trying to create perfect garments for others, and so for this project, I found myself agonising over the small details.
In the end, this was the cloth combination I settled on. Holland & Sherry Cool Breeze cloth, a merino wool worsted yarn ideal for the summer months as the construction allows the body to breathe and stay cool, but offers everyday wearing and a luxurious drape. This is one of the lightest weight cloth options I’ve ever chosen personally at 7.5oz (I usually prefer in the region of 9-10oz for working suits).
Style & Detail of the garments.
So, the important part of styling any suit is understanding just exactly what the client wants. Listening to them talk about style and icons and all the items that they enjoy wearing, and trying to guide them towards all the little embellishments that will bring the garments to life. From lapels to jacket vents to pocket positions and right down to the colour of the buttons and threads.
Seeing as this one was for myself, I decided that I would create something using all of the little details that I’ve seen on some of my clients suits this year. I’m my own worst critic, so I’m happy to report that I was absolutely delighted with the way this one turned out.
For the waistcoat, I kept things simple. 4 buttons spread over 5 button spacing, black silk covered buttons to tie it in with the jacket, jetted pockets finished in black silk again to match the jacket. Notched on the bottom with a Red lining back.
On the cuffs, I opted for a 3 button finish, with all buttonholes stitched in Red to emphasise the check and to match the lining. The buttonholes are working, which is one of my favourite details on a bespoke suit. It’s a dead giveaway to an “off the peg” suit when the cuff buttonholes are mimic. I also added a “contrasting flash” detail under the cuff buttons. Not a prominent detail, but there nonetheless. Also, the outer pockets do have flaps, but the jets are finished in black silk in the event that I want to tuck in my pocket flaps for the “tuxedo” look.
Finally, I finished this jacket with a deep cut shawl collar. Quite unusual and makes this a definite tuxedo. I’ll probably keep the shirt and tie simple for full effect, and I’ll either dress with a red or black bow tie & handkerchief. All in all, I’m very pleased. This little project has turned out a little better than I thought. I dare say my next outfit will be a little more simplistic as most of my clothing is business-wear, but this is a little insight into the workings of your tailor. The person who will guide you through each and every little detail to ensure that your bespoke garments are as perfect as the ones he created for himself.
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